Cooler days are here…time for a new coat

Another challenging garment!  Wardrobe by Me needed testers for their new coat, and I volunteered for it, although I knew I would be pressed for time.  My chronic back pain also ratcheted it up a notch this past month…or so.  As it was, I was late on this.  I used fabric for the outer that I had in my stash, which was a lightweight coating fabric.  The welt pockets and collar are in leather.  The inside is a heavy satin.

Wardrobe by Me – Classic Coat Pattern

Available for a short time for introductory price of $11

I swear, I tried to get the stripes lined up, but it was shifty.

It is hard to see all the details, but it has back darts, bust darts, a two-piece sleeve and pleats in the lining.  This was well-done.

The exterior sleeve will need to be eased into the armscye.  Set in sleeves are not that scary.  The best way to do this is to do two rows of gathering stitches in between the notches and ease it into the armsyce.  This generally requires you to pull the armsyce fabric and press down on the gathers while sewing to get it to all eventually lie flat.  Go slow.  Next use your tailor’s ham (get one if you don’t have one, they are not expensive) to iron out any puckers.  The lining did have gathers, though, so that was a part of the pattern.

I bought some fusible fleece, along with the satin, hoping to add some additional warmth for the coat.  The pattern does not have this in it, so this is extra.  I fused it to the lining, and I cut it out around the pleats and seam allowances to make sure it didn’t add excess bulk.

I had to be careful fusing it to the satin, since I got a new iron and that puppy runs hot!  I melted it in a few places, but it didn’t go through to the front of the fabric, thank goodness.

I was able to get away with a little less on the fabric requirements (used a little over 2 yards on the outer).  This was partly due to the inside facing having less length, as I changed part of to leather.  I cut the leather piece at a page break in the pattern piece.

It looked like the perfect spot to stop the leather, and it was.

The collar area was a bit more difficult to follow her directions due to the leather.  I had to change how I constructed it a bit, so it doesn’t look as neat as I would like.

The undercollar is satin, so a pop of color underneath.

The welt pockets went together pretty well with the leather.  A tip I saw was to cut out the welt pocket on the pattern so the markings are easier to transfer.

I basted all the lines with red thread before sewing it up.  I also did this with the darts.  It makes it easier to see on both sides.

The shoulder pads I attached before attaching the lining, so I sewed them into the sleeve head and along the shoulder seam.  They won’t move that way.  It is just a few layers of cotton batting cut in the form of a shoulder pad and straight-stitched along the edge.  No need to go buy one.

One thing that I messed up is the button holes.  Last step, of course.  I put them too far inward.  What can I say…it was 12:30 am and I was tired.

I am very pleased overall with how this turned out.  The outer fabric frayed horribly, but after running it through the serger to close the edges up, it went together really well.

One thing, I think I should have sized up for a roomier coat.  I was between size 10 and 12, so I chose 10.  This may induce me brush the dust off the elliptical. 😉

I even found some bulky yarn that matches the interior.  Time to make a cowl or scarf to match!